It contains everything you'll need plus instructions. Skip to content Skip to navigation. Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. Rocksolid Guarantee Shop with confidence. If it's not up to snuff after you use it a couple times you can still bring it back.
It lasts longer than 30 days, but not forever. Too much is better than not enough. Let the material cool and then using a sharp razor blade carefully cut any additional material that has filled the repair hole so the base is flush.
My Cart. Colors: Black, Clear Sizes: 8mm, 11mm Quantity: 6 pieces per size 11mm P-tex sticks are primarily used for the base extruder gun.
Share: Facebook Twitter Pinterest. Good as new and hardly noticeable if you finish it carefully. One solution is to cut the tips off an old pair of skis Rossi Stratos or Head Standards would rank classiest, of course and use them as pressure plates. Place one atop and one under the damaged tip. Slip some release paper, plastic bags, or wax paper between the layers of this ski 'sandwich' to keep the layers from all getting glued together, and tighten them snugly but not too tight or you.
The old tips act as molded pressure plates to distribute the clamping pressure evenly across the damaged ski tip. The result was a 7" long side edge board delamination. I spread the crack open, dried and cleaned it, and went to the local Wally World to find the strongest epoxy they sell. I put down paper and a heat pad graciously supplied by the condo on the ground, epoxied up the delamination, and parked my van on it for the night. The next morning I filed the edges, scraped the base, waxed it and the repair is still good to this day.
Don't forget to inspect that heat pad on your next trip as it might be a little squished. To simplify the job and guard against further damage, I've made a metal shim that I place along the sidewall so the opening straddles the bent edge. I clamp it and the ski or snowboard securely base-up in a vise. The edge can then be carefully driven back outward without causing more delamination or damage. Traditional design skis with sandwich or box construction and some trapezoidal-type skis can sometimes be restraightened back to their original camber with the judicious use of heat and force on a bending bar.
The semi-rigid structural nature of many cap and monocoque skis, however, makes this almost impossible since it usually results in a weak spot or kink in the top cap that can' t be repaired. Check with your ski shop or contact the manufacturer to see if they can find a new mate to match the length and flex of your remaining good ski When ordinary c-clamps don' t work, try using strips from an old bicycle inner tube.
Force can be increased or concentrated by overlapping the layers of stretched rubber The rivet hole was drilled first and countersunk from both sides. The glued layers were clamped until the epoxy hardened and I used saran wrap over the repair while drying to keep the c-clamps clean. When dry, the rivet and joint were trimmed flush with a smooth file.
The good ski was riveted at the same time as a precaution. Use a slow-set epoxy which is more flexible when it sets up than a quick-set epoxy. The impact is roughly equivalent to hitting your skis with a hammer, and they may start delaminating. I run a bead of silicon caulk about 12" back from the tips along the tops edges of my ski tips The top sheet has separated from the bottom, and is also chipped a little.
I can squeeze the tip together and it looks okay, except for the chip. Can this be repaired? Our oyster knife is a great tool for getting in between the layers and scraping dirt or grunge out.
Then mix up a two-part urethane glue more flexible when dry or epoxy less flexible when dry and work it in at the ski tip between the top sheet and bottom layer Wrap up the whole works with a plastic bag or paper towel, and clamp it firmly but not super tight together. If you have flexible steel scrapers or bent plates to place over the top sheet and bottom layer before clamping, this is even better. Let it dry at room temperature or warmer for 24 hours before unclamping, unwrapping and cleaning everything up.
This might require sandpaper, a steel scraper or chisel, etc. The chipped topsheet can be patched with either urethane or epoxy Again, let this dry 24 hours, then clean up with the same tools. Although it may not look especially pretty, it can really help hold things together. Does pigment go bad, or is affected by cold temperatures? We recommend mixing the two epoxy components together This will also make it thinner and allow it to flow deeper into delaminations, cracks, nicks, etc.
Sometimes pigment will separate in the bottle In this case, simply pop it in your microwave for a short time try second increments to heat it up a bit. This, along with some shaking or stirring, should return it back to good working condition. Then take a hacksaw and cut this section lengthwise, so you have a 4" long sleeve that can be spread open wider or compressed smaller in diameter with some small hose clamps around it.
Place over a badly bent or broken pole to splint it until you reach civilization again. It goes on real easy with a lighter or heat gun, and multiple layers can even be used for extra durable protection. It melts easily with only a butane lighter, hardens quickly, and becomes soft enough to remove a pole basket if heated in hot water or steam.
It' s available where boating products are sold. For cosmetic repairs to ski tops that suffer scratches and small punctures from ski pole tips, etc. If you want to match the color of a ski, try nail polish.
There are enough colors, including metallics and glossies, to find a pretty good match. To fill small holes such as ones made by tacks for holding on some x-c ski heel plates use Elmer' s glue or similar, then cover with nail polish. Just wrap some electrical tape round the pole shaft directly below the basket and they won.
Remove all the old foam and glue from around inside the goggles, then trace the goggle pattern onto wax paper or tracing paper. Use hot glue, shoe goo or similar to attach the new pad and hold it in place with rubber bands or clothes pins while the glue dries. Take your time and let the p-tex flow into the gouges slowly. Going slowly will let the base preheat and accept the p-tex better.
If the p-tex continues to burn on the base, blow the flame out so the base does not overheat. Deeper gouges should be filled in multiple passes, allowing each layer to cool before adding the next. Any repairs on damage near the edge or very deep should begin with metal grip and a soldering iron see video below. Keep in mind that p-tex candles are too soft to withstand snow abrasion and will wear out; you may wish to consider a professional repair job.
Slightly overfill the gouges. After repairs have cooled, remove excess material by planing it off with a metal scraper. Sand with grit sandpaper and the gray base pad from the 3-pad set.
Remove any micro hairs by making a few passes with a sharp plexiglass scraper. Waxing with a hard wax will also help remove hairs by standing them up for the scraping step. Structure if needed with a coarse metal brush and gray pad. To prevent carbon formation when using p-tex: The key is to maintain a blue flame don't let it burn orange.
To do this, keep it low to the base or close to a metal scraper. This will minimize carbon buildup.
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